Rigging a 2″ line without a ratchet.

I’ve had a couple of requests for a “howto” on rigging a two-inch line, sans ratchet, so here it is. Basically we’re just line-locking in a short piece of one-inch webbing (usually about 10ft will do it) and then making a primitive system with it. So if you already know how to do a primitive, all you’ll need to learn/acquire will be one or two 2″ ID rings like these from Madrock, and matching pear-shaped ‘biners.


  1. Yattila Seiji says:

    I have a Question to your video: Rigging a 2″ line without a ratchet

    Are these Alu-carabines you re using? (the orange one`s)
    Because allready a few Slackliners in our Community in Berlin, told me that i shouldn t use Alu-carabines for Slackling cuz they can break.
    I want to bouild the same System as yours but it has to work also on a line up to 40-50m. Is is allright to use Alu-carabines for such a long line too?

    Ah before i forgot, your/this site is really helbfull. I m really thankful for you to create such a nice site. I could find many things without searching for hours over the net.

    (Sy for my crappy english. It needs much polishing.)
    Best ragards from Germany/Berlin

    Answer: Aluminum carabiners are totally safe on short lines, but anything over 30-40m (so if you use pulleys) I would be careful and probably use steel. For a 100m line I usually have about 10-12Kn of static tension, and most aluminum carabiners are only rated for 18-25Kn… not enough margin to make me feel safe!

  2. Tom Martin says:

    Awesome site – keep it coming!
    With this technique you are essentially joining two pieces of webbing in a line locker no?.
    I am new to slacklining and so far only have 2 lengths of 10m of 1″ webbing. I have been using one length for the line and the other for the 3:1 primitive system but fastening the system to the karabiner at the end of the line with a loop made with a water knot. This then means the karabiner at the end of the line has tape passing through it three times. While this results in a double locking system (if the water knotted loop is laid over the top of the usual locking system) it is a bit of a faff.
    So my question is; can I safely join the two lengths of 1″ webbing in the line locker like you have done here and dispense with the water knotted loop?

    EDIT: You are correct, this is just friction to join 2 pieces together. It should work fine for two 1″ pieces.

  3. Jake Olsan says:

    I can’t find the 2″ rings anywhere, they’re not on Madrock’s website anymore. Any suggestions?

    Answer: try here?

  4. PhilGE says:

    Just found these http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=708

    2-1/2″ Interior Diameter
    3-1/4″ Overall Diameter
    Drop Forged Steel
    Weight: 4.5oz (127gm)
    100% proof loaded to 3,600 lbs (16kN)
    Min tensile strength 5,000 lbs (22.2kN)

    $9.95 a piece.

    What do you think?

    I haven’t used those, but I think they would work. Pensafe builds decent forged rings (I have a couple of their smaller rings). If you start to get fraying in your webbing, this means you should sleeve it (put it within a short 2″ tubular piece of webbing where it passes the locker) and perhaps double up the line locker rings.

  5. PhilGE says:

    So, put the 2″ line inside of another 2″ tubular line for the bulk of the bight used to create the lock?

    ANSWER: yeah, for the best chance at not fraying/windowing your line, I would do that. Sleeves and double-rings seem to be the best protection.

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